WHY YELLOWSTONE?
I have traveled dozens of national parks around the world and in my humble opinion, Yellowstone ranks above all. Some parks are majestic and breathtaking in their own way; like the rock cliffs in Yosemite and the eponymous Grand Canyon National Park, but Yellowstone is unparalleled with its sheer size, amazing diversity of landscapes and abundant wildlife.
I discovered this magical place from the 3-part BBC nature documentary series back in 2012, which led me to visiting the park later that year. Watch it free here (not HD though!) Visited Yellowstone 3 times since and each outing did not disappoint.
HOW MUCH?
As you will read as we go along, the total cost for a 6-day round trip to Yellowstone from LA or SF is only around US$600.
This is a very realistic estimate and covers ALL COSTS; including car rental, gas, meals, plus airbnb stays along the way and at Yellowstone.
And save more by using a credit card that gives rebates or miles!
WHEN TO GO & HOW LONG?
It is freezing winter 6 months of the year in Yellowstone, so the only time to properly experience the park is from April to October.
- SPRING — April to early June — Temp: 40’s-70’s F (5–25°C)
- SUMMER — mid June to early September — Temp: 30’s-80’s (0–30°C)
- AUTUMN — mid September to October — Temp: 40’s-70’s (5–25°C)
- WINTER — November to March — Temp: Zero to 20F (-20C to -5°C)
Spring and autumn are the best times to visit. Avoid summer due to huge crowds, I suggest going a minimum of 3 whole days which is just enough to cover the main attractions and take in the adjacent Grand Tetons. Be aware that days may be lost due to the park’s unpredictable weather: It can pour anytime and even snow during spring and autumn!
The optimum amount of time to spend in Yellowstone is probably 5 days, but you can stay longer to sightsee, fish, camp, or hike its countless trails.
DRIVE OR FLY THERE?
Yellowstone is located within 3 states in northeast USA: Wyoming (~90%), Idaho, and Montana. It’s far from most major cities: an 11 hour drive from Las Vegas/Seattle, and a 14.5 hour drive from Los Angeles/San Francisco/Sacramento.
If you have no time or are not up for a road trip, you can take a 3.5 hour flight to Jackson Hole airport near Yellowstone (from LA or SF), then rent a car from the airport and tour the park. Plane tickets do not come cheap (at least $500 return) and are limited so book way in advance!
Driving Costs: 6-day Car Rental + Gas = $460 per vehicle ($230 per pax for 2)
Flying Costs: $500 per pax + 4-day Car Rental + Gas = $700 per pax for 2
WHAT TO BRING?
DRESSING: Yellowstone is often chilly, especially at night and dawn. Bring warm clothing, including a thick jacket. Also bring a hat and/or sunscreen because the sun can get very glaring on sunny days. Make sure you can secure the hat to your head — Winds can get powerful out there!
SNACKS: Do pack extra food and lots of water for the journey. There are general stores in the park but selling all that at a higher price.
DATA: The towns around Yellowstone have internet reception but only Verizon seems to work within the park, while wifi is almost non-existent (including in the park lodges). No need data to navigate though, the park brochure map is more than adequate.
ACCOMMODATION
Cheapest accommodation are airbnbs in nearby towns like Jackson, Gardiner, and Victor (ID); room prices range from $70 to hundreds a night. If you are willing to stay further such as Bozeman, room rates get even cheaper (as low as $40).
Then lodge cabins/inns within the park itself, whose price vary depending on room quality and amenities. The Old Faithful Snow Lodge has comfy frontier cabins starting from $100 a night.
A pricier option are the hotels and motels in neighboring towns with prices starting from $250 or more, while most expensive are experiential stays —ranch lodges within the Grand Teton National Park and around Yellowstone.
Accommodation Costs: 5 nights stay in fringe Airbnbs = $300 per room (or $150 per pax for 2 people)
GETTING THERE
So it begins! If you’re coming from the south, you will first reach Jackson Hole, a valley which is the gateway to the Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks.
Driving into the valley, you arrive at Jackson, a tourist town full of hotels, motels, restaurants and souvenir shops. There are many tours you can book too, including hot air balloon rides above Wyoming (near to the park).
Going past, you will be inside the…
GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK
There is an entrance booth somewhere in the center of the park, which costs $35 per vehicle. If you are traveling to more than 2 NPs within this coming year, save money and buy the annual National Park Pass for $80.
Grand Teton NP is a tasty appetizer to what’s to come with its stunning mountains and sparkling lakes.
Parks Entry Costs: $70 per vehicle
MORMON ROW
My first recommended stop is the historic Mormon row. The Mormons are a religious group branched out from Christianity and a group of them built this cluster of homesteads, ranches, and barns inside the park in the early 1900s. These buildings have long been abandoned and are now a tourist attraction.
GRAND TETONS
Heading north, you will encounter the 3 main Teton viewpoints: Glacier View turnout, Grand View turnout, and Teton Point turnout. Each of these provides a great photo opportunities of the Grand Tetons.
Try to avoid cloudy days to see the magnificent Teton peaks.
Further north, the Elk Ranch Flats Viewpoint occasionally has awesome views of ranch horses grazing against the Tetons backdrop.
OXBOW BEND
Then you can stop by here to see the meandering Snake River at its finest.
JENNY LAKE
If you have time, turn left at the Jackson Lake Junction and drive 20 minutes to the Jenny Lake Visitor Center. From there it’s a short walk to Jenny Lake.
There are many viewpoints and hiking trails around Jenny Lake; a famous overlook is Inspiration Point (plus Hidden Falls), but it’s a long 1 hour hike (one-way) there from the visitor center.
JACKSON LAKE LODGE
Continuing north, you might want to drop by the Jackson Lake Lodge; which holds the annual Federal Reserve economic symposium.
Other than that, the lodge is a great place to relax, have a meal, or view the rolling meadows from its back porch. You can sometimes spot moose here!
YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK
That’s it for Grand Teton NP. Going north from the lodge brings you to the Yellowstone entrance. Pay the fee (or show your annual pass) and you’re in!
Once at West Thumb (the base of the figure of ‘8’ loop), it’s best to go left and visit Old Faithful first:
OLD FAITHFUL
A 30 min drive brings you to the Old Faithful tourist village, comprising of an inn, 2 lodges, gas stations and stores. Plus of course, the Old Faithful geyser surrounded by a crowd (depending on when is its next eruption)
Saw two eruptions this trip (my third and fourth times), each lasts a few minutes.
Old Faithful now erupts every 90 mins with a 10 min margin of error (and this interval will only get larger due to its underground plumbing). You can tell if it’s going to erupt by the crowd size — the entire viewing platform will be packed when it’s near. Or visit the nearby Old Faithful Visitor Center to find out the next eruption time.
After viewing an eruption, (or if you just missed an eruption), do visit the nearby Upper Geyser Basin:
UPPER GEYSER BASIN
This geyser basin showcases dozens of geysers and hot springs of all colors, shapes, and sizes.
What’s the difference between a geyser and a hot spring? A geyser has an obstruction in its hydrothermal plumbing near the surface, keeping boiling water trapped underground and releasing it in violent eruptions. In hot springs, water circulates freely to the surface, giving off steam and heat.
A 30 min walk to the end of the Upper Geyser Basin is the mesmerizing Morning Glory Pool — Kinda like a mini-Grand Prismatic Spring.
DINING
Eating options within both national parks are limited to restaurants and diners serving your standard American food: Burgers, hot dogs, steaks… The food is standard price (starting from $10 for a meal) and is decent.
Save money by buying cereals, fruits, pastries, etc. at grocery stores and having breakfast in your room before leaving.
Total 6-day Food Costs: $150-$180 per pax
BISCUIT BASIN
Leaving Old Faithful and heading north, Biscuit Basin is worth a quick stop.
GRAND PRISMATIC OVERLOOK (GRAND PRISMATIC SPRING)
This place is a must visit! To go to there, first park at the Fairy Falls Parking Lot, between Biscuit Basin and Midway Geyser Basin.
A 20 minute hike on the Fairy Falls trail and up a gentle incline will bring you to the overlook for stunning views of the colorful and alien-like Grand Prismatic Spring (and Midway Geyser Basin).
This overlook is very popular and usually super crowded. Go in the early morning or evening (before 10 AM or after 5 PM) to avoid tour bus groups. A low-wind day will also keep rising steam from the spring at a minimum, allowing fantastic photos.
MIDWAY GEYSER BASIN (GRAND PRISMATIC SPRING)
Now you have seen it from afar, it’s time to go close up. Hike back to your car and drive a few minutes to the Midway Geyser Basin.
Follow the boardwalk, which brings you up close to the Grand Prismatic Spring.
This basin is also home to attractions like the enormous Excelsior Geyser and pretty Turquoise Pool.
FIREHOLE DRIVES
Further north are the Firehole Lake and Firehole Canyon Drives. Both are fairly short and scenic, definitely drive them if you have the time.
GIBBON FALLS
Next, the Gibbon Falls overlook has some great views.
ARTIST PAINTPOTS
Artist Paintpots is a 30 minute round trip hike and was not as impressive as the park brochure.
However, I enjoyed its panoramic view on the hilltop which highlighted the different aspects of Yellowstone: Geothermal features, lush forests, rolling meadows, and majestic mountains.
NORRIS GEYSER BASIN
This basin consists of Porcelain Basin and Back Basin. It is famous for being the hottest, most changeable, and one of the most colorful geyser basins in Yellowstone.
Hot springs have the ability to become geysers, and vice versa.
Steamboat Geyser in Back Basin is the world’s tallest active geyser, with the ability to jet water and steam 380 feet (115 m) into the air. However, it is very rare to witness an eruption, with intervals ranging from 4 days to 50 years. But who knows, you might get lucky!
NORRIS TO CANYON VILLAGE DRIVE
If you decide to cut east, the road between Norris to Canyon Village is mountainous and winding but has excellent views.
MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS TERRACES
Or if heading north from Norris, you will reach Mammoth Hot Springs — A complex of hot springs on series of marble-terrace-like steps.
It is divided into the Lower and Upper Terraces. Palette Spring on the Lower Terrace is one of the most iconic springs in Mammoth.
We came right where there was a bull elk (with antlers) grazing with his harem at the terraces. North Yellowstone is always buzzing with wildlife!
We drove to the Upper Terraces, where there is a short loop drive with parking lots. The rightmost boardwalk brings you past some beautiful springs...
BLACKTAILS PLATEAU
Heading east from Mammoth, we passed this plateau known for its beautiful scenery and abundant wildlife, especially bison herds. We saw pronghorn, coyotes, bison, plus even black bears from a distance.
LAMAR VALLEY
Past the quiet tourist village of Tower Roosevelt, a 25 minute drive will bring you to the famed Lamar Valley, dubbed “America’s Serengeti”.
There are hundreds of bison grazing in the valley, rain or shine.
Often, they come close or on to the road, which gives tourists an up-close-and-personal, safari-style experience.
Lamar valley is also a popular bears and wolves spotting location. Dozens of wildlife enthusiasts often camp along the main road with giant telescopes and binoculars to catch a glimpse of these elusive animals.
OPTIONAL — BEARTOOTH HIGHWAY
Traveling further east brings you to the Northeast Entrance of the park. Beyond that lies the Beartooth Highway: A 2 scenic hour drive through the heart of the Northern Rocky Mountains. Beware, this is a very bumpy and winding road!
MOUNT WASHBURN
Back to Yellowstone: If you return to Tower Roosevelt and continue south, you will reach the Mount Washburn parking lots/trailheads.
Two trails lead to Mount Washburn (return hike of 2 to 6 hours, depending on speed):
- 6 miles (9.6 km) Dunraven Pass trail
- 5.8 miles (9.3 km) Chittenden Road trail
At the peak is a stunning 360 degree view of the entire park, to as far as the Teton range. There is also a mini-visitor center and stores.
GRAND CANYON OF THE YELLOWSTONE
Moving down to Canyon Village is Yellowstone’s own Grand Canyon. There is a North and South Rim Drive, each with unique perspectives of the canyon and falls. However, the best view is arguably Artist Point at the south rim.
HAYDEN VALLEY
Down south is Hayden Valley, a mini-Lamar with herds of bison grazing all over the plains, often spilling on to the roads for plenty of photo-ops!
On the south end of Hayden is a geyser basin which contains Sulphur Caldron, Dragon’s Mouth Spring, and Mud Volcano, among many others.
YELLOWSTONE LAKE
Final stop at the southeastern end of the loop drive is the enormous Yellowstone Lake (about half the size of Singapore!)
There are many recreational and water activities you can do here such as picnicking, hiking, fishing, or boating (swimming is not allowed).
COST BREAKDOWN (ROUND-TRIP FROM LA OR SF)
Driving: 6-day Car Rental + Gas = $450 per vehicle ($225 per pax for 2 people)
Accommodation: 5 nights stay in fringe Airbnbs = $300 per room (or $150 per pax for 2 people)
Parks Entry: $70 per vehicle ($35 per pax for 2 people)
Total 6-day Food: $180 per pax (can budget more if required)
TOTAL: US$590 per pax
This may seem a lot but it’s total cost for a 6 day round trip from Los Angeles or San Francisco. You can visit other attractions along the way for a little extra (e.g. Vegas from LA; Yosemite from SF) and with 4 people traveling, you save even more on car rental, fuel, and park entry fees.
SUMMARY
This national park is so huge that you can spend a lifetime in the park and still not experience all of it! Way off the beaten tracks are hidden trails, mountains, lakes, rivers, and vast numbers of animals of all size and shape.
Yellowstone can give anyone a holistic and satisfying nature experience, and we hope this guide has provided you with all the required info for your ultimate safari-type experience at an affordable price. Don’t miss it!
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