South America Wonder Trip on a Cheap Budget

A free & easy holiday with my wife Jess from 10–28 August 2019. We are travel bugs and had never been to South America so this trip was on our bucket list for a long time. Price includes all flights, accommodation, tickets, food and other expenses. We travelled to Peru, Bolivia, Brazil and Argentina and had the quintessential South American experience! Highlights include:

PREPARATION — FLIGHTS, BUS & TOUR BOOKINGS

Coming from Singapore, we took a return flight between SG and Los Angeles (S$1,200) and also toured LA and California a bit, but that’s another story.

Many travel sites warn against driving in South America (poor road conditions, bandits, corrupt cops, etc.), so it’s only flights and tour buses for this trip (save more by booking everything with a credit card that gives rebates or miles). First, we booked the 4 main flights at US$1,550:

And coming from Texas or NYC is cheaper! Plus book way in advance (unlike us) to get the best rates and timings. I also recommend spending 4–5 days each in Cusco, Rio and Buenos Aires; we didn’t satisfactorily explore the cities with our limited time, and the extra cost is little.

Next, we separately booked some miscellaneous flights:

Then our Machu Picchu tickets:

Total Machu Picchu Day Trip Cost: US$190 per pax

All our stays except for Puerto Maldonado (Amazon) were at airbnbs, and majority were superhosts, with the highlight being a stay on a floating uros island in Lake Titicaca. Airbnbs in South America are mostly cheap and plentiful, but those in La Paz are pricier and Uyuni has few homestay options.

Our stay in Puerto Maldonaldo was the Paradise Amazon Ecolodge at a pricey US$90 per pax for 3 nights. There are even cool-looking treehouse airbnbs in this area (but may be a pain to climb up and down!)

TRAVEL INSURANCE: Recommended for South America as flight delays are known to be common and it’s wise to insure your valuables. However, all our flights went smoothly which was a pleasant surprise.

DATA ROAMING: Get data roaming for greater convenience (like navigating and booking rideshares). Your telco should have an overseas plan that covers Peru, Brazil and Argentina. Bolivia is usually hard to get.

VISAS: Here’s a quick wiki check to learn your respective country’s visa requirements. Argentina, Brazil and Peru generally do not require a visa, but Bolivia has stringent visa requirements; refer here to know more and apply for a Bolivian visa online (FREE for most countries).

VACCINATIONS & MEDICINES: Some are highly recommended for travel to South America, including altitude sickness pills for Peru. We went to our local polyclinic (government clinic) for a series of jabs and stocked up on meds; check out my detailed article on this.

WARM CLOTHING: Part of South America (especially Peru and Bolivia) is situated on an elevated plateau which makes it cold. Cusco can go as low as 5 °c, Puerto Maldonaldo (Amazon) 8 °c, Puno and Uyuni -3 °c, so dress warm!

SECURITY: Never felt unsafe there as we stayed in and spent most of our time in the tourist districts. Plus both Rio and Buenos Aires have a huge police presence in the tourist neighborhoods, although the latter has seen a spat of motorcycle snatch thieves in tourist spots according to locals, so be careful.

We flew from LAX to Cusco Airport. There are no direct flights so be prepared for 1 or 2 stopovers. Got out of the airport (pretty cold even at noon!) and hailed an airport taxi to our airbnb (negotiated the fee to ~15 Sol).

Alternatively, you can walk out of the airport grounds and hail a taxi for much cheaper but it’s tedious and uncomfortable (Taxis in the airport pay a 5 Sol airport entry fee that’s why they charge higher, while rideshares currently don’t exist here).

We checked in, dumped our bags and walked to the Plaza de Armas (Cusco’s city center) to sightsee.

The plaza is full of historic monuments, shops, restaurants, and bars. There are also massage parlors (as low as 25 Sol/US$7.50 per hour) to relax and unwind.

Dinner was a 3 course meal special including a drink at Cholos Grill (25 Sol/US$7.50 per pax) near the plaza square. Very Peruvian and great tasting!

DAY 3: MACHU PICCHU

Next day we woke up early for Machu Picchu. Stopped by Cafe Panam (30 Sol/US$9) for a quick breakfast before walking to the Inca Rail Bus Station for a 2 hour bus ride to the town of Ollantaytambo.

There we were ushered to an Inca Rail train which took us on a 2 hour ride to Aguas Calientes, the gateway to Machu Picchu.

Once off the train at Aguas Calientes, we had to self-navigate to the main city center where an insane queue awaited. Bought the shuttle bus tickets (US$24), queued an hour, and boarded the bus.

Note: You MUST BUY Machu Picchu entry tickets here as they are not sold at the entrance.

A 25 minutes bus ride to the Machu Picchu entrance, and further 10 min hike later...

Toured the place for 2 hours before heading back (stopping at Centenario restaurant in Aguas Calientes for dinner). The journey from Cusco to Machu Picchu took 5.5 hours total, while the return trip took 5 hours, arriving back to our airbnb near midnight. But it was worth it!

No time to rest as we had booked this consecutive day tour (way too hectic a schedule on hindsight). The pickup time at our airbnb was a gruelling 4.30 am, so we had not much sleep.

We rode 1.5 hours in the minivan with a dozen other tourists to a tiny village called Quiquijana for breakfast at dawn. Then another uncomfortable 1.5 hours along bumpy and winding mountain roads to the Vinicunca Mountain Trailhead.

The hike is 1.5 hours, you have the option of renting a horse along the way for most of the distance (starting at 80 Sol/US$24 and decreases as the remaining distance shortens). Beware of heatstroke and especially altitude sickness, do take altitude sickness pills the night before.

Along the way, you will be rewarded with views of the surrounding mountains and valleys. The final stretch is a steep climb (horses will stop here) to Vinicunca lower viewpoint.

After the climb, made worse by the high altitude at 5,200 m, we made it!

Another steep 15 min hike to the upper viewpoint gives you this:

Then began our long 1.5 hour hike back down, the 1.5 hour bus ride to Quiquijana for lunch, and another 1.5 hour bus ride back to Cusco.

Time taken: 10 hours in total for US$33 (costs way more if you ride a horse). The hike is a good challenge and the views are uniquely amazing but Vinicunca is not for everybody. However, I believe this day trip will get easier and shorter as the road infrastructure gradually improves. Let’s wait and see!

All the above was merely the end of Act 1! There are a ton of things to see and do in the Sacred Valley, including the famous Inca Trail (many do the 4-day trek) or even a breathtaking skylodge stay! (starting at US$480 a night)

DAY 5: FLY TO PUERTO MALDONADO (CITY IN THE AMAZON RAINFOREST)

After a good night’s sleep, we checked out for a wonderful breakfast at Cafe Tallado (27 Sol/US$8).

Then a taxi to the Cusco airport and flew to Puerto Maldonado (Very few direct flights so book way in advance).

Try to get window seats on the plane for magnificent pictures of the Amazon rainforest near landing. Upon arrival, we were met by a hotel driver who brought us to the ecolodge’s city office.

We were greeted by Rose, the ecolodge owner who planned with us the activity list for our stay (US$143). Then a short Tuk-Tuk ride to a tiny jetty on the Rio Madre de Dios River and a speedboat ride to our lodge. Settled in, had dinner then went to bed.

DAY 6–7: PARADISE AMAZON ECOLODGE

Thus started our Amazon forest adventure. Next morning, we did a canopy walk and zipline, visited a native family (tried grubs, taste like chicken!), plus a night walk where we saw Tarantulas.

Second day was a whole day trip to Tambopata National Reserve and paddle-boating in Lake Sandoval. Saw many turtles, birds, monkeys, and even a family of sea otters.

We didn’t see the famous parrot clay lick because of lack of time (gotta wake at 4 am!). Also, beware that mosquitoes are a huge nuisance in the Amazon. Get strong insect repellent or cover up your body well.

DAY 8: FINAL DAY IN AMAZON & FLY BACK TO CUSCO

Day 3, had some spare time before our flight so tried piranha fishing in a nearby mud creek, but no success. Turns out dry season’s not a good time to piranha fish as the water level is low and the piranhas stay in lakes/rivers with cleaner waters.

Returned to the city, where we paid for our trip: US$223 per pax (including lodge stay, all meals and activities).

There was some spare time before our flight so we visited the Mariposario Tambopata Butterfly Farm near the airport. Opposite the farm was a convenience shop where we got snacks and posed with the resident parrot.

Flew back to Cusco for one night in another airbnb. The superhost recommended us a great place to eat at a nearby restaurant: Delicious fried chicken with lemonade! (16 Sol/US$5)

Literally everything we ate in Peru was delicious. Seems like everyone there can cook!

Then began our 6.5 hour tour bus ride from Cusco to Puno. Some luxurious Scenic Trains ply this route but prices run in the hundreds of dollars.

We boarded the Cruz del Sur tour bus to Puno’s main bus station, where our airbnb host Reuben had a driver pick up and drive us to the Uros Jetty. Reuben arrived in a speedboat and took us to his special home on Lake Titicaca; part of the famous Uros floating islands.

What’s so famous about these floating islands? They’re built out of local reeds (bundles and bundles of them), and tied to other islands to form larger islands. Conversely, if anybody has a tiff or bad blood with their neighbor, they can simply cut the ropes and paddle their home away…

And yes, you can fly drones on this lake and parts of South America (not allowed in Machu Picchu, for one). Start with an entry-level drone and be careful of strong winds.

Our stay on Reuben’s floating island was wonderful. The night skies were magnificent with views of the Milky Way, we went on a fishing excursion on his speedboat, did a guided boat tour of the many islands (~125 in total), and had a traditional dress-up!

Food was tasty with soups, trout, chicken, fried breads and omelettes, among others (Each meal is 20 Sol/US$6)

Returned to the mainland the next day. Hired driver dropped us at the Bolivian consulate in Puno where we our visa application into Bolivia wasn't approved due to an incorrect online application (I heard getting your visa at Cusco is much easier). Read here to understand your visa requirements, our mistake cost us US$100 each to process the Bolivian visa on the spot at the border!

 

Walked to the bus station for a 2 hour ride to Kasani, a border town straddling Peru and Bolivia. There we were forced to cough up 100 bucks each for the visa and rushed back to the bus and continued on to Copacabana.

Then a crappy 1 hour ride to Tiquina, 1 hour ferry crossing, and 2 hour ride to La Paz. An awful experience and worst day of our trip!

Reached La Paz’s main bus station at 9 pm and boarded a Titicaca Experience bus for the 9 hour overnight trip to Uyuni.

Reached Uyuni at 7 am, temperature was below freezing! Found a cafe called Pajonal Salar de Uyuni for a decent American breakfast (25 Bs/US$4).

Next a short walk to the Skyline Travellers office. Our 1-day Salt Flat tour was a group of 5 tourists (including us) plus the SUV driver and an English-speaking local guide, Bismarck.

Toured the train cemetery and Colchani’s salt refinery, then drove to the salt flats to the Dakar Monument and Plaza de las Banderas Uyuni (Flag Plaza). Complimentary lunch was at the adjacent Hotel de Sal Playa Blanca.

Afterwards, we drove to a deserted spot to take some whacky photos, then Isla Incahuasi for a 45 min hike.

Finished the tour at the Eye of the Southland, a thermal spring area where I managed to snap some cool “mirror effect” photos. This hidden gem is a wonderful substitute for the genuine “salt flat mirror effect” photo which is available only in the rainy season!

 

Watched the sunrise with some complimentary chips and wine, then back to the office to grab our luggage. We were directed to the Donna Luci restaurant for a tasty chicken dinner (25 Bs/US$4 for both of us)

Took a taxi to Uyuni airport, then a 1 hour flight to La Paz, where our airbnb host was gracious enough to pick us up from the airport for our brief stay.

Unfortunately, we were unable to explore this city due to our tight schedule, including famous attractions such as the Witches’ Market, Death Road, Valle de le Luna, and La Paz's famous cable car (teleférico).

Ready for Act 3? Early next morning, we rode back to the airport and flew 10 hours to Rio. Changed some USD for Brazilian Real in the GIG airport, big mistake: The airport money exchanges charge a hefty 10% tariff in addition to the crappy exchange rate, so swap your money before arrival.

Rideshares are plentiful in Brazil such as Uber, 99, and Cabify (payable by credit card) with a growing number of female rideshare apps. We Ubered to our airbnb in Ipanema, a fairly safe tourist district next to the famous Copacabana neighborhood.

DAY 14–15: RIO DE JANEIRO

Brunch at Bigbi cafe, which was affordable and delicious (27 Real/US$6.50), then walked to Lapa neighborhood and the packed yet magnificent Escadaria Selarón (Selaron Steps).

Next took a metro train to Lago do Machado to buy Christ the Redeemer Tickets from the Corcovado Official Ticket Office at one end of the park (63 Real/US$16). Many touts abound offering CtR tickets but we didn’t risk it.

Unfortunately the sky turned cloudy with rain so our photos didn’t turn out great. That’s one big problem with Rio: You need good weather to enjoy most of its attractions like CtR, Sugarloaf, plus the famous parks and beaches.

Returned to Ipanema where our airbnb host recommended us the Casa de Feijoada restaurant. Feijoada is a meat stew and Brazil’s national dish, so we had to try it! Turned out to be a relatively expensive 3-course dinner at 125 Real/US$30. Food was great but way too much with free refills!

Day 15 we headed to Sugarloaf Cable Car Station, gateway to Urca Hill and Sugarloaf mountain. Paid the cable car fee (116 Real/US$28) to go up.

Atop Urca Hill, we took in the sights and sounds of the place. A second cable car took us to Sugarloaf with panoramic views of the city:

We left and Ubered to Copacabana beach, full of street vendors, cafes and bustling beach activity. Bought souvenirs, had a great mini-pizza snack at Habib’s (7.90 Real/US$2), and took in some beach action.

Didn’t have time to change and enjoy the beach proper, and note that public restrooms (even to change) costs 2 Real/US$0.50 per use. Towards evening, we wandered further along the beach to a nearby night market.

DAY 16: FLY TO BUENOS AIRES

Time to leave. We Ubered to Rio’s GIG airport (double check which is yours as there are a few Rio airports) and flew to Buenos Aires.

Ubered to the airbnb at Monserrat district’s Avenue de Mayo, the oldest street in BA and one of the most beautiful.

Did a walk of our ’hood including Florida Street, Galerías Pacífico mall, Plaza de Mayo and Casa Rosada (Pink Palace), Responsible Consumption Fair, and San Telmo district with its Sunday flea market; a dream for souvenir hunters.

BA has some strange practices, as we found out and according to our host:

At night we hit the famous Cafe Tortoni for a fantastic 1 hour tango and dinner show (800p/USD$14). Go early 'cos there’s always a queue!

DAY 17 : DAY TRIP TO IGUAZU FALLS

Next morning went to Aeroparque (AEP) regional airport for our day trip to Iguazu, with a 200p boarding fee (It’s wise to go to airport/bus stations earlier in case of unexpected delays or traffic jams).

A 2 hour flight landed us at Iguazu airport, quickly hired a taxi (700p/US$12 one way, no bargaining) to Iguazu National Park. A 800p/US$14 admission ticket into the park and Iguazu Falls — an extensive waterfall system rivaling Niagara Falls’ majesty.

 

We didn’t have time to tour San Martin Island, do any boat activities, nor the Upper Circuit trail, but the falls are truly one-of-a-kind spectacular. Took another 700p taxi ride back (no shortage of waiting taxis there) to the airport and flew back to BA. Factoring in flight cost, this Iguazu day trip cost about US$200 per pax. Worth it? If you’re a nature or waterfall lover it’s a must see (especially on a good sunny day).

DAY 18: BUENOS AIRES

Final day was breakfast at Siete Cafe (210p/US$4) then a walk along Corrientes Avenue.

Stopped at the popular creamery Cadore. The place did not disappoint with free samplings, many exciting flavors to choose from and reasonable prices (140p/US$2.50 for a big two-flavor cone).

Then to the Rose Garden and Pergola Lake in Palermo, which were underwhelming as it wasn’t flowering season. Come in Spring (Sep — Nov) to see 18,000 roses in full bloom!

An Uber brought us to the famed Caminito area in La Boca, teeming with street performers, art sellers, souvenir shops, bars and restaurants. A delightful end to our trip!

DAY 19: FLY BACK TO LA

And that’s it! We spent this whole day flying back to LA (17.5 hours with 2 stopovers). A truly exhausting yet memorable holiday!

Total bill came to US$3,000 each. This is relatively cheap considering we spent 3 weeks and visited so many places. A breakdown:

The bulk of the cost was flights, so book half a year or a year ahead to get the best routes and cheapest fares. Skip Iguazu Falls if you’re not keen and to save $200, or Amazon Forest to save $235.

INFINITE POSSIBILITIES

Ultimately, planning a South America trip is up to personal preferences: What you’d like to see and do, budget, number of days, plus tolerance level for unsafe or uncomfortable places. For example, staying outside Rio’s tourist neighborhoods is cheap but generally unsafe. Bolivia’s poor infrastructure makes traveling in and around the country difficult and costly while its cities like Uyuni are lacking in quality accommodation.

There are also countless top SA travel destinations we didn't have time for, so you’re spoilt for choice!

So plan your trip wisely, and in advance. Happy holidays!

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