Europe Summer Rail Trip on a Cheap Budget

BACKGROUND

After 2.5 years in Covid shutdown, we finally embarked on this whirlwind free-and-easy holiday in July 2022. Flew from Singapore to Milan, traveled by rail within 4 countries in a loop, and visited dozens of world-famous destinations, all in 19 days! Highlights include:

Our itinerary was pretty hectic so do adjust it or extend stays wherever you prefer. We were unable to visit several places due to price/time constraints and Jess feeling unwell: Jungfraujoch, Hintertux, Eisriesenwelt, Orcia Valley, etc. but I have included them in the map for reference.

PREPARATION — BOOKING FLIGHTS, TRAINS, AIRBNB, MONEY EXCHANGE

We booked our flights through Skyscanner with Etihad, both ways with a 4 hour stopover in Abu Dhabi. Europe has removed all Covid restrictions, but bring along your physical vaccination card just in case.

Total Flight Cost: S$974 (€690) per pax

As usual, we opted for a free and easy tour, but to our shock, car rental rates in Europe had rocketed 4 to 5 fold compared to pre-pandemic (plus it was peak summer period), so we went for a 2nd-class train trip using the Eurail Global Pass (on Railplanner app) and buy other tickets as required. On hindsight, this was a bad move as Italy’s trains are notoriously horrible (see below).

Eurail Global Pass Cost: S$490 (€335) per pax for 7 Days Travel within 30 Days

Other Trains Tickets Cost: S$900 (S$450 or €320 per pax)

The overall train cost seems high but renting a car during peak period costs at least S$3,000 (€2,100) and that does not include fuel costs!

Since we were city hopping via train, we chose to stay in city airbnbs (preferably superhosts near the main railway station). Interlaken’s airbnb was expensive and below par, while Italy’s airbnbs were cheaper but somewhat lacking (in condition, cleanliness, location, etc.). However, our Innsbruck and Lake Bled airbnb stays were 5 stars amazing!

Total Airbnb Cost: S$2,650 (S$1,325 or €960 per pax) for 19 Nights

The bank exchange rate if you use your credit card overseas is crap, so exchange currency beforehand at a local moneychanger (For Singapore, go to The Arcade in Raffles Place for the best rates). Alternatively opt for a Youtrip card, it works like a debit card and can be topped up anytime, even overseas.

PUBLIC TRAINS & BUSES

Ensure you board/alight at the correct train station. Some cities have multiple main train stations, such as Interlaken Ost (East) or Interlaken West. Most main stations are Centrale (e.g. Milan Centrale) or Hbf (e.g. Salzburg Hbf). Florence’s main station is Firenze S.M.N. and Rome’s is Roma Termini.

Train transfers can be very stressful — Many connecting trains give you only 7 minutes to transfer and trains can change schedule, reroute, or get delayed on a whim. See here for an analysis of Europe's railway system.

The Swiss and Austrian public transport is generally good but expensive. Some trains have free wifi. The Interlaken Regional Bus network utilizes a trust system while most Swiss and Austrian trains have random inspector checks. Austrian trains are surprisingly a bit better than the Swiss trains, while Slovenian trains are more worse for wear than the above two.

Italian trains mostly operate by a trust system. Tickets are only checked at major train stations (cursory glance) and seat reservation (SR) routes.

CRIME

We did not encounter any such crime but there are signs posted warning about pickpockets, especially in tourist areas. Also, beware of scammers, especially “friendship band” scammers at tourist hotspots!

WEATHER

Summer sunrise is 5:15 am and sunset is 9 pm, giving you almost 16 hours of day light to cram a lot of stuff in one day. Our trip coincided with a record summer heatwave in Europe, with temperatures in Italy regularly hovering at 40°C (104°F)!

Smokers are everywhere in the outdoors too which may put off some tourists. Plus watch out for mosquitoes which are prevalent in Italy.

INTERNET & RESTROOMS

We did not get any overseas roaming plan, relying solely on airbnb, train, and free wifi hotspots (Singapore's Changi Pocket Wifi charges a high daily rate for Europe). Macdonald’s usually has free wifi and often free toilet, which is useful as it is generally not easy to find free public toilets in Italy.

FOOD

Switzerland is famous for their rosti, which we tried along with standard European dishes such as pasta. Generally Swiss food was good but expensive, about CHF 25 for two big meals per pax per day. Mcdonald’s is always a budget option in Europe if you are looking for consistent comfort food, or cup noodles/supermarket takeaway food can be a cheap and equally satisfying meal.

Austrian food was more varied, famous for trout, cordon bleu, veal schnitzel, strudel and tiroler grostl. Mostly great and slightly less expensive than Swiss.

Italian food was quite polarizing, we had high hopes for favorites like their pasta and pizza but was left mostly disappointed by many of our choices (even those rated highly on TripAdvisor). A lot of their food seems to be a one-tone of saltiness. Nevertheless, we had some excellent authentic pasta and mini-pizzas (pizzettes) in Rome. 

Cost for meals was about CHF/€25 per pax per day. Snacks and drinks can cost CHF/€5–15 per pax a day depending on your willingness to spend.

DAY 1: TOUCHDOWN IN MILAN & TRAINS TO INTERLAKEN

Our flight went smoothly, although Etihad’s plane food was mostly below par, with oily pastries for breakfast and snacks, while the main course was an average meat or fish dish, nothing special.

We landed in Malpensa Airport on the outskirts of Milan and took a 1 hour train to Milan Centrale Station (Most trains in Italy operate on a trust system, including the Milan-Airport route). From there was a couple more trains, the first leg we nicknamed “Hell-train”, to reach Interlaken Ost in late afternoon another 4 hours later, where we finally checked in.

Optional: Lake Como

Didn’t have time to visit Lake Como again, a beautiful Italian lake near the Swiss border. A worthwhile stop if you have the time!

DAY 1–3: SWITZERLAND — INTERLAKEN REGION

We spent the next two days touring the Interlaken region. First stop was Iseltwald’s Piano Pier, made famous from the 2019 Korean TV show “Crash Landing On You”. See this complete list of CLOY’s famous filming locations!

Next was Grindelwald, where we took a cable car to Grindelwald First, a wildly popular tourist spot for activities and sightseeing.

Then a quick stop at Kleine Scheidegg, another CLOY filming location, on the way to Lauterbrunnen, famous for its 72 waterfalls around the village.

Optional: Jungfraujoch

We skipped Jungfraujoch this trip as we didn't have time and I’ve been there before. A 3-Day Interlaken Pass (includes Grindelwald, Lauterbrunnen, Jungfraujoch) cost CHF 270 (S$390 or US$285), which was also very costly. But it's worth a visit once in your lifetime — This observatory has stunning alps views, an ice palace, and is also a CLOY filming location.

DAY 4–5: INNSBRUCK

We then headed to Innsbruck by train, a grueling 5.5 hour ride. There we toured the Old Town, bought some souvenirs, and went to the Top of Innsbruck viewpoint (€38.60 per pax).

Last visited this city in 2017, and it still remains a charming and relaxing destination.

Optional: Hintertux Ski Resort

Our main reason for going Innsbruck was actually nearby Hintertux, an all year-round skiing winter resort. However, our host Marga helped us check the route which was a long 2.5 hour train and bus ride there (and another 2.5 hours back, at €18 per pax). With Jess’ mild illness, we had to give this a miss.

DAY 6–7: SALZBURG

Two days later and back on the rail, a 2 hour ride to Salzburg. Revisited the Old Town but not Mozart’s House as we’ve been there last time.

Werfen — Eisriesenwelt Ice Cave & The Sound Of Music Trail

Next was a day-trip to Werfen, a 1 hour train from Salzburg, famous for its Sound Of Music Trail and Eisriesenwelt. The SOM trail was a strenuous 30-40 minute hike plus the view wasn’t as spectacular as hoped.

We did not have time for Eisriesenwelt (which is much more accessible by car). This ice cave, which is the largest in the world, is also a tough hike at freezing temperatures.

Hallstatt Day Trip

Day 7 was another day-trip, this time to the picturesque village of Hallstatt. We booked a half-day tour via Salzburg Panorama Tours (walk-in booking and departure at the main square, €63 each). Although infamously touristy, this village had some surprising attractions, such as a charnel house (bone church) and great souvenir shops.

DAY 8–10: LAKE BLED

Then a 3.5 hour packed train ride to Lesce, the tiny city gateway to Lake Bled. Opposite the Lesce-Bled train station is a oft-packed bus stop with an Arriva bus service to take you to Lake Bled (Tickets are bought onboard, €1.30 each).

An alternative is the friendly and convenient Bled Shuttle service to and/or from the station. Simply message or whatsapp +386 31 490 401 (15€ per ride for 2 pax).

We settled into our airbnb a 20 minute walk from Lake Bled, and next day explored the area.

Lake Bled is a safe, clean, bustling tourist region with many recreational activities to partake in, such as hiking, swimming, paddleboarding, white water rafting, and paragliding. 

Took a wooden row boat to Bled Island (€15 each), then cycled and hiked to the Ojstrica Viewpoint for the iconic view of Lake Bled (also a tough climb). All in all a delightful surprise!

Optional: Vintgar Gorge & Zelenci Nature Reserve

Vintgar Gorge and Zelenci are famous natural attractions near Bled which we didn’t have time to visit. If you are driving and looking for someplace new, do check them out.

Ljubljana Stopover

Day 10, we took a train out, stopping at Slovenia’s capital city Ljubljana. Since we had 2 hours till our connecting train to Venice, we did a quick tour of the city center (15 min walk from the train station), such as the unique Triple Bridge and gift shops. Totally worth it!

DAY 10–11: VENICE

Another transfer at Trieste station, and we were in Venice-Mestre station (on the mainland). Another short train brought us to Venice Santa Lucia station and our airbnb in the heart of the historic city of Venice. Looking back, staying in Venice-Mestre is a cheaper option instead of on the island itself. Total train traveling time from Bled to Venice was a mind-boggling 7.5 hours.

Day 11 was our only full day in Venice. Summers there are hot and humid, with plenty of mosquitoes at night. However, it was a charming city which you have to see once in your life.

The main attractions are the Grand Canal and Saint Mark’s Basilica, while our highlight was buying a bunch of Murano glass-blown artpieces, and also viewed some amazing artwork from up and coming French artist Jisbar at a pop-up gallery (which now start at an eye-watering €9,000).

DAY 12–14: ROME

On to Rome, a 4.5 hour train ride by bullet train, and required an online seat reservation booking (extra €20 each).

We were surprisingly able to visit all the major tourist hotspots in less than two days (one side-effect of the China Covid lockdowns is there are very few Chinese tourists in Europe, resulting in shorter queues and crowds everywhere).

You can walk everywhere to see the attractions, but most would take the metro to avoid the heat and long slog. A metro train ticket costs €1.50 for 100 min (plus a €0.50 card fee sometimes). Beware some ticket machines have problems accepting credit cards, notes, or are straight-up defective (and no staff on site to help).

Take note you have to book Colosseum tickets online in advance (€16+€2 booking fee per pax) then show the email digital receipt to the ushers. There are NO TICKET BOOTHS at the colosseum site.

Vatican City — St. Peter’s Basilica, Vatican Museums, Sistine Chapel

But do the exact opposite at the Vatican City — Do not buy Vatican Museum tickets at the Ottavanio station or from any scalpers. Simply walk-in to the and buy tickets on the spot, at the published rate of €17.

St’s Peter Square and St Peter’s Basilica are free and not to be missed — We had to queue 10 minutes under the sun, then another 5 minutes in the shade to enter the basilica, but it was worth it. They also provide free body covers so there is no dress code requirement.

If there is only one church or palace you can visit in your lifetime, St. Peter’s Basilica is it!

DAY 15–17: TUSCANY REGION

Pisa

After 3 days in Rome, we headed to Pisa, location of the famous leaning tower and our base for visiting the many great sights in the area.

Cinque Terre

A 1 hour train ride from Pisa brings you to La Spezia. From there, board a train in direction to Sestri Levante and in 10 minutes you’ll arrive at Riomaggiore, the first village of the stunning coastal region of Cinque Terre.

There are five villages in total: Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia(x), Vernazza, and Monterosso, with the three in bold being the more popular destinations, although we only had time to visit one. Riomaggiore is accessible by a secure cliffside walkway which isn’t suitable for handicapped and older folks.

Florence

Our last day in Pisa was a day trip to nearby Florence, a 1.5 hour train ride away. Toured the Historic Centre of Florence and many iconic locations, such as the Piazza del Duomo, Piazza della Signora and Ponte Vecchio. The city is also famed for their Florentine Steak, so give it a try if you are into those.

Optional: Orcia Valley

It was too rush to travel to Orcia Valley by tour bus (most depart from Florence) or by rental car (You need to have an IDP beforehand if renting car in Italy). This valley encompasses a beautiful Tuscan countryside, with vineyards/wineries (Montalcino, Pienza), historic attractions (Chapel Vitaleta), and famous filming locations (Gladiator House, Twilight’s Volterra).

DAY 18–19: MILAN

Then it was back to our starting point, Milan, a 4.5 hour train ride. The Milan metro costs €2 for a 90 min ticket, and we managed to squeeze in some time on the morning of our last day to see visit the Milan Cathedral and Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II shopping mall. We didn’t have time to view the cathedral’s stunning interior (entry fee €7) so go for it if you have time.

Serravalle Designer Outlet

On the same afternoon, we headed back to the Milan Central Station to catch the 1 PM shuttle bus to the popular Serravalle Designer Outlet (~2 hour ride, €20 per pax). You can buy tickets on the spot and there usually is vacancy. But the bus has no toilet and weak wifi.

There are many European boutiques selling items as low as 1/4 of Singapore prices, plus a 12.5% tourist tax rebate. Strangely however, you can only get a refund in USD or CHF at their tax rebate office.

Bring lots of cash/Youtrip card or any card with a favorable exchange rate because you lose a lot using your credit card for large purchases (potentially ~10% on bank exchange rate during purchase and another ~10% for tax refund in only USD or CHF).

Our return shuttle bus departs at 8:15 PM. To return other than your predetermined time depends on vacancy. And miss this last bus and you are stuck in that town for the night.

Serravalle to Milan Central: 4:15 PM, 5:15 PM, 7:15 PM, 8:15 PM

AIRPORT TAX REBATE & FLYING OFF

If you have bought other souvenirs elsewhere in Italy like us, you will need to claim the tax rebate in your departure airport. Remember to go early to the airport as this may take a while! Ensure you have the customs stamp then find the correct rebate counter/machine (there are 3 different types) and follow their procedures accordingly.

And that’s it! Side story: We were asked to show our vaccination cards upon check-in (Singapore’s TraceTogether app could not work) but we had trouble finding it so they denied us boarding! Yet when we found the cards with an 1 hour to go before take-off, they still refused us, saying our flight was overbooked! So sneaky!

We had to find a place to stay the night (in a nearby small town), good thing Etihad compensated us with a €600 travel voucher each, and possibly claim for that extra night’s expenses per EU regulations. But it still left us with a very bad impression of the airline.

COST BREAKDOWN

Flight: S$974 (US$700) per pax

Airbnb: S$1,325 (US$960) per pax

Intercity Transport (Train & Bus): S$490+S$450=S$940 (US$670) per pax

Misc. Expenses (e.g. Food, Attractions): S$1,000 (US$730) per pax

TOTAL: S$4,300 (US$3,000) per pax (Peak Season)

But wait!

If go during off-peak season (Spring or Autumn), total cost can be as low as S$4,000 (US$2,900) per pax.

If you rent a car AND go during off-peak season, total cost can be even lower at S$3,500 (US$2,500) per pax!

IN CONCLUSION…

Unless you are on a tight budget or traveling light, I highly recommend renting a car to tour Europe and Italy, especially in a big group of 4 (Remember to apply for an IDP). You can have a flexible schedule, explore more out-of-the-way attractions, and save with cheaper airbnbs (plus tourist taxes) outside the big cities too!

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